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L'ulivo

http://www.lulivo.co.uk/

 

It’s an attractive, intimate Italian restaurant and our hopes were high for the Caesar salad. Only available with chicken, but that’s not always a bad thing.

 

So what can I say about the dish we received? The presentation was a little disappointing – a little slapdash, looking like the sort of salad you might end up with at home after using a pack. Not much care had gone into its appearance and we weren’t overwhelmed with the love it had been shown.

 

Also, it had tomatoes – something I find as unconvincing in a Caesar salad as anchovies.

 

But the first taste told a different story – the dressing, which so many restaurants get wrong, was creamy, sharp and tangy, the chicken was tasty and the lettuce was crisp and fresh. A bit short on parmesan, but otherwise probably the best we’ve had yet. I was prepared to offer a high mark indeed.

 

Sadly, I then tried one of the croutons and instantly my face fell. Small, tasteless and almost stale – instead of providing a satisfying crunch they were rather soft and underwhelming. Given the calibre of the rest of the salad, it was a distressing realisation.

 

And so, I’d say it just about justifies 7 out of 10. One of our highest marks yet, and would have been an 8 were it not for the below-average presentation and frankly poor croutons. Our quest continues, and I find myself wondering where the really exceptional salads are hiding...

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© Gavin Collins